I was interviewed about
session beers recently. I've kind of
become the unofficial point person for session beer since starting this blog,
so that's happened fairly often in the past four years. I've tried to be
outspoken, because that's what session beer needs: vocal support
(and your vocal support, too!), so brewers know that not everyone wants just
more bigger, boozier, more extreme beers. Some of us also want
great-tasting lower-alcohol beers that we can have at lunch and keep working
(and I mean two full pints at lunch and keep working), or have a few of – or
four or five of* – over two or three hours and not get silly.
So anyway, I was doing this
interview, and one of the questions was: "There's been a lot of
talk in the media about the session beer trend taking off, though
it's often hard to see when you go to a bar...and see 30 taps, 90% of
which are 6% and up. Have you noticed any solid evidence that the
session-beer revival is really happening here?"
Fair question, if that's what you're seeing...but it's not what I'm
seeing. I'm seeing more talk about session beer – a lot more – I'm
seeing breweries making more session-strength beers, I'm seeing
breweries making commitments to session-strength beers – like Chris
Lohring with his contract brand, The Notch, which are all 4.5% and under
– and I'm seeing more people responding.
Okay, I'm seeing that because
I'm looking for it, to some extent, but I was looking for it four years
ago, too, and it wasn't there. It's here to see now, and it is growing,
and some of that's because the beers – like Yards Brawler, and Notch
Pilsner, and Stone Levitation – are so good that we tend not to notice
that they're so low in alcohol. Chris did a Notch Saison this summer that
clocked in well below 4.0%, and it flew, though I suspect most
people who drank it up never even knew.
One session beer's done
so well that it's broken out of its
seasonal slot and is going nationwide: 21st Amendment's Bitter
American. I first had this delicious low-alcohol brew at 21st
Amendment's San Francisco brewpub, and greatly enjoyed it. When it arrived in
my Philadelphia market in cans, I was one happy camper, but my joy was
tempered by its here-today-gone-next-month status.
No more. 21stAmendment
has decided that Bitter American is selling so well that it will hold up as a
year-round beer.Here's 21st Amendment Brewery co-founder Nico Freccia: "We
got so many emails and tweets asking us to make this a year-round beer, we just
couldn't ignore them. It's the perfect antidote to the big beers of winter and
also the perfect summer brew."
"Bitter American is a
great beer during colder times when strong beers seem to be pretty
prevalent," added founder and Brewmaster Shaun O'Sullivan. "When we
first brewed this beer it really scratched the lower-alcohol-session-beer-itch
that I would get when I was tired of drinking barley wines, imperial stouts and
other stronger hoppy beers. I wanted and I think a lot of good beer drinkers
want a session beer where you can enjoy a few pints of a beer with huge flavor
but without all the alcohol."
I think they're
absolutely right. It's a tasty, crisp beer
(much like Narragansett Summer Ale, another session-strength can that
should go year-round, though probably with a different name!), it's got
eye-catching graphics, and people instinctively know they can drink the
hell out of it.
There's your proof. Beers like this are gaining sales (and not at the
expense of big beers, you extreme crybabies; everyone's gaining), and
the whole idea of a lower-alcohol, higher-flavor beer is gaining momentum. Why
not? Because some people think it should cost less? News for you:
thousands of cans sold disagree with you. I do think we'll have to have
this pricing issue out one of these days, but the people have spoken, for
now: they're willing to pay for flavor, even if a smaller group
apparently only wants to pay for alcohol.
So...the blog is back.
Tomorrow, an interview with Victory brewers Bill Covaleski and Ron Barchet
about the mistake that turned their Dark Lager into a session beer, and why
they're glad it happened. See you then!
*Some might call that
'binge drinking,' I tell them to check the total alcohol and the time...and
leave me alone.