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| Session Beer? Or not? |
On Friday,
Brewbound reported that Michigan brewer
Founders had acknowledged that the relatively new
All Day IPA (one of the
exploding number of so-called "session IPAs,"
well-noted here by Notch Brewing's Chris Lohring) introduced as a
seasonal in March, had achieved
year-round status and, by a solid margin, established itself as the brewery's
best-selling beer. The Brewbound story said that:
Through the end of June, Founders had sold over 130,000 case
equivalents (CE’S) of All Day IPA since March 1. Sales of its next
best-selling beer, the year-round Centennial IPA, have only barely
eclipsed 102,000 CE’s.
Well,
boom! Founders CEO Mike Stevens expanded on that, saying that he expects All Day IPA to account for
nearly 40% of the brewery's total production in 2014, that the folks at Founders "are looking at this brand as a category leader in the
session ale
category,” and, significantly, "even though it’s
called ‘All Day,’
the most important words on that label are ‘session
ale.’...It’s an
underserved category and All Day isn’t taking away from what is really
great about well-made craft beer.” The All Day label illo is now the opening illo on the Founders website, even.
Which is causing me some seriously mixed emotions. Because while I'm thoroughly excited that a
brewery celebrated for its big beers -- Devil Dancer, Breakfast Stout, Dirty Bastard, Double Trouble -- brewed a
lower-strength beer and found that it
sold like mad... That beer is
4.7% ABV, just over the
4.5% ABV upper limit the Session Beer Project recognizes as "session beer."
ARGH!
So do we
celebrate? Or do we
tear out our hair and weep and moan, because "session beer" is tagged on a 4.7%er? Do I say, "Oh, hell, it was
just an arbitrary limit anyway...yeah, it's session beer, and WE WIN!" Is this
the end of the
session beer universe?
Well, no, it's
not the end of the world, and no, I'm not going to tear out my hair. I already said that,
here. And I'm going to
celebrate a little bit, because of that "
the most important words on that label are ‘session
ale.’" quote. But yeah, I'm gonna
hold the line on this. I'd rather see All Day IPA at
4.5% or less; sure, I would, if they're going to put "session ale" on the label.
And I'm
pretty sure we
will see very successful beers
at 4.5% and less, and
fairly soon. If this IS as
hot a category as Stevens seems to think it is -- and I think
he's right, been thinking that for a while now -- other brewers are going to be
jumping in -- and
they are; as Lohring says, it's easier
hop on a train than it is to
build one -- and some of them are going to differentiate themselves by getting great flavor out of beers that are
under 4.5%. And they're going to serve them in larger glasses, and they're going to price them lower (not because they're
significantly cheaper to make, but they may see that as a marketing cost), and they're
going to change craft beer. Really, I think there's a real chance of that.
So I'm
not going to celebrate All Day IPA as a
session beer -- though I'm happy to drink it -- but I'm going to take its success as a
harbinger. And I'm going to
encourage other brewers to kick its ass by making a beer that's just as good, just as interesting...and
under 4.6%. I know they can do it; they
already are.
Yeah, that post just below? Where I said I encouraged lower ABV competition to Founder's All Day IPA?
